if you need a breaking wave, make it :-)

OceanographyCreating the perfect wave

One of the Nature papers reported about very nice work – building the perfect wave for the surfers. If you don’t have an access to the perfect surfing sites in Florida, you can build such one in your windy lake, maybe.
Of course, there is some deep physics, e.g. critical wave characteristics, concentration of wave energy by an artificial ‘perfect coral reef’ (see below)

OceanographyCreating the perfect wave

The final conclusion is, though the great achievements, surfers will still prefer the natural sites ๐Ÿ™‚


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